Ontario climbing crags. Sub-areas ordered roughly west to east.

Ontario climbing crags. With a mix of climbers, crags, and disciplines featured, theres no better way to celebrate the growing Ontario climbing scene. fun trad adventures to challenging 5. ca ⓘ A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. Whether you're a novice looking to learn the ropes or a seasoned pro seeking new challenges, North Bay has something special For a complete guide to Mount Nemo, please refer to Justin's guidebook, Ontario Climbing Vol. With a few notable exceptions the escarpment crags happen to be ideally suited to this practice, being a uniform 60 to 80 feet in height, normally with easy access to both top and bottom of the cliff, and a plentiful supply of sturdy trees at the top to serve as anchors. Dec 14, 2023 · Just in time for the holidays, our 2024 Ontario Crags Calendar has arrived! Featuring local climbers shot by local photographers, the OAC calendar is a tribute to everything Ontario climbing has to offer. Probably one of the best 11s in Ontario! Leftmost route on this wall. Welcome to Kitchener, a vibrant city in Ontario, Canada, known for its diverse culture and beautiful natural landscapes. ca ⓘ Join the Ontario Access Coalition for just $5 for life. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and The latest Ontario Rakkup guide covers Rattlesnake Conservation Area, which is home to Rattlesnake Point, Bottle Glass Crag and Buffalo Crag. Currently, there is a two-hour visiting limit, and climbers will need to register online for an available time slot before arriving at the park. 7-5. Bring extra webbing or static rope to help make anchors. Minimal trad routes, grades 5. The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) is requesting that all climbers fill out the current Crag Access Survey. All routes have lower-off anchors. 1: The Southern Escarpment”, available at ontarioclimbing. The Echo Valley Crag is an excellent choice for novice climbers with its easy-to-moderate routes and supportive community atmosphere. As gripped. Dec 11, 2023 · Closures of famous crags are encouraging new development further afield, and widening the often-insular route-development community. Suitable Crags for Beginners If you're new to rock climbing or looking to hone your skills, there are plenty of beginner-friendly crags in Muskoka. The Turtle – Ontario's newest crag offers offers a substantial amount of safely bolted moderate sport climbing. As a result many of the lines tend to seep a little later into the spring; once things dry up for Mount Nemo is located in Burlington, Ontario and is a conservation area owned and operated by Conservation Halton. The new guide documents over 280 routes, provides detailed descriptions and photographs for each climb and All this work now makes Calabogie one of Ontario's largest climbing areas. Leave no trace, respect other parties, and be mindful if you have music or dogs at the crag. Central Ontario climbing hotspots in Haliburton, Bancroft and Muskoka feature hard-rock Canadian Shield crags with rugged granite faces and Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The main city and population center of the area is Ottawa, the capital of Canada. Here are the best places for rock climbing in Canada — big walls, sport routes, epic multi-pitch options, beginner routes and everything in between. Most routes are sport, some trad and mixed ones. Reservations are now MANDATORY for climbing at the Turtle. We are enthusiastic climbers who love to share our passion and knowledge with others! Not already a member? Sign up for free and join our growing global community of rock climbers. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. This May 17, 2019 · Southern Ontario has a lot of climbers and in the summer, those climbers head to the few crags that are open for climbing in the Toronto area. If you're an outdoor enthusiast looking for some adrenaline-pumping adventure, then you're in luck! Kitchener offers a variety of climbing areas and crags that cater to climbers of all skill levels. The old guidebook provided inadequate information on Devil’s Glen, and, of course, The Swamp had yet to be developed. Buy mec. Climbers are responsible for making their own safety decisions, and we recommend that climbers in remote areas have at least an up-to-date Jun 12, 2025 · Southern Ontario’s monolithic Niagara Escarpment is recognized as a United Nations Biosphere Reserve for its natural landscapes and rich biodiversity. com reports the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) has announced that the pocket-riddled Turtle area is reopening with a reservation system. Explore the thrilling world of rock climbing in Hamilton, where climbers of all levels can find crags and routes to suit their skills. Niagara Glen is a crag inside of South-Western Ontario The first line of glue-in bolts to the (climber's) right of the Cow Crag descent gully. Published in two volumes, this will be the first complete guide to this region in almost 25 years. 3-5. Apr 6, 2021 · There are hundreds of crags in Canada to choose from, but some are better than others for your first outdoor rock climbs. The new guide documents over 280 routes, provides detailed descriptions and photographs for each climb and includes GPS coordinates to every route. Coldshuts at top, difficult to clean due to 20' overhang (better to 2nd). com Facebook Ontario Guidebooks: Devil's Glen | Lion's Head | Metcalfe | Old Baldy | Rattlesnake | The Swamp Located just 45 minutes from Toronto, Mount Nemo is the premier crag in the Milton region. So several years ago, I mentioned the idea to a friend who is a competitive swimmer and asked if it would be possible to swim across. The Turtle – Ontario's New Moderate Sport Crag Updated Oct 16, 2021: Turtle Crag is now officially open for climbing once again! However, there are some changes to access at this crag. As with many of the crags that form the Niagara escarpment there is a single cliff line, which is broken in several places by gullies that can used to access the base of the routes. Sep 11, 2024 · This page is meant as an additional supplement to the websites like the Crag and Mountain Project, which list the crags, routes, grades, and beta across Ontario, and the Ontario Alliance of Climbers, who lists the crag status (i. Climbers should be prepared to be without cell service, but know that there is a hospital in town. Some good routes of all grades up to 20m in height. Apr 3, 2025 · Ontario’s diverse climbing landscape offers everything from beginner-friendly crags at Rattlesnake Point to advanced waterfall rappelling adventures in the Frontenac wilderness. With a mix of climbers, crags, and disciplines featured, there’s no better way to celebrate the growing Ontario climbing scene. Ontario Climbing: Vol 2 The Northern Escarpment provides accurate and up-to-date route information for over 1200 routes at crags starting in the Beaver Valley area and continuing all the way up to the top of the Bruce Peninsula. Sep 30, 2024 · The Ontario Crags Calendar aims to celebrate and highlight the wide variety of climbing that Ontario has to offer. The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) - Toronto section maintains a hut and camping area near the climbing and a boat for access to the In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. Discover breathtaking rock formations, enjoy the fresh air, and experience the unique feeling of freedom and adventure that comes with climbing. The The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) is warning climbers that elements in the new Niagara Escarpment Plan include recommendations to ban climbing at many Escarpment crags including Lion's Head. Explore exciting crags and routes suitable for climbers of all levels amidst breathtaking natural scenery. The region boasts an array of diverse climbing areas and crags that cater to climbers of all skill levels. There are 12 passes available each day, in order to limit the number of people at the crag. Route names, wall area Discovering Climbing Areas and Crags Welcome to North Bay, a haven for rock climbing enthusiasts seeking a taste of adventure amidst stunning natural surroundings. 11. For more information and to make a reservation visit here. The main crags include Mount Nemo and Rattlesnake, and farther north is Old Baldy, Devil’s Glen and the Swamp. If noise and litter become a problem, or climbers are Lion's Head - The weather at Lion’s Head deserves special mention. While the routes aren’t as long as nearby crags, the climbing is on good rock and the routes are high-quality. , whether climbing is allowed) of many areas across Ontario. We can verify that Crag X is a real crag. Its name whispered in gyms while its whereabouts unknown, many sought to climb there. Access issues inherited from Ontario In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. On The Rocks is a collaboration of fun spirited, certified rock climbing guides dedicated to helping climbers of all levels reach climbing goals and feel more safe and confident on the rocks. Generally different crags and cliffs within about a 2-hour drive of the city of Thunder Bay. Membership helps us protect access to Ontario crags. The guide can be purchased at the or at various fine retailers and climbing gyms in the Southern Ontario region. Jun 27, 2025 · The Nooks Lake Superior Access Status Open Land Manager Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry Type of Climbing Bouldering Rules/Description Situated on crown land, this area is a pretty secluded and pristine area to climb in, with over 150 problems established, ranging from v0 to v13. The most current guide to climbs in this area is "Thunder Bay Climbing: A guide to Northwestern Ontario's Best Kept Secret V2" by Aric Fishman. Ottawa has no official policy on climbing soconsider climbing tolerated. It’s also the ultimate gateway to outdoor rock climbing with clean limestone walls and easy access. Many of the crags have seen recent development with routes being (re)bolted to modern standards. The routes are almost all trad or top His understanding of local issues has been instrumental in maintaining climbing access to Lion's Head and the surrounding crags. Check out their website for crag status and also learn about outdoor climbing ethics and Leave No Trace. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) has been working on securing access for Ontario climbers for years and recently took on the challenge Climbing in and around Thunder Bay. Climbs are generally accessed from the water, so a boat is usually needed. Crag Y is a area inside of Crag X/YA comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. Sep 18, 2023 · "No climbing" signs have been removed from popular crags, as the Ontario Alliance of Climbers work to secure access for generations to come Mar 13, 2024 · Buffalo Crag: Located in Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area, Buffalo Crag is less busy than the nearby Rattlesnake walls. Climbers should spend some time reviewing the document, as it not only highlights areas that are currently open and closed, but also crags that may have area-specific restrictions. A popular trad and top-rope crag, also the only crag in the area which officially allows teaching and guided groups. Mostly gently rolling hills and river valleys/plains. Reservations can be made HERE. Sport grades from 5. We want to showcase everything from as many different crags, seasons, and climbers as possible — ICE, SPORT, TRAD and BOULDERING are all honoured here. Bon Echo climbing is actually on a cliff called "Mazinaw Rock" in the Bon Echo provincial park. When parking, remember to leave unobstructed way for local habitants and agricultural machinery. Not already a member? Sign up for free and join our growing global community of rock climbers. Thunder Bay Climbing: A Guide To Northwestern Ontario’s Best Kept Secret is a new climbing guidebook for Northwestern Ontario that covers the most popular crags within a 1. Due to changes in bolting, it is best to always take bolt number information with caution. Niagara Glen Bouldering Guidebook - Directly Supports Topo Work Ontario Rock Climbing Belay Glasses - Supports Topo Work Arc'teryx Gym-to-Crags Workshops Both workshops will feature presentations from the members of the Ontario Access Coalition (OAC), the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) Toronto Section, Overhang Adventures climbing guides and Ontario Climbing guidebook authors Gus Alexandropoulos and Justin Dwyer. Suitable Climbing Areas Learn how to outdoor rock climbing courses & Lessons at Rattlesnake Point, Milton, Toronto, Ontario, and rock climbing in Squamish, Vancouver, BC. Climbing is mostly on edges, in cracks and through roofs of varying size. 12 sport Colin: Well, I've always liked the idea of combining a day of climbing between the two crags and doing it all human-powered. Be prepared for some strange looks and potentially a grumpy citizen telling you off. Crag is missing access information, so remember that climbing is not always permitted. Most routes require some gear, but there are full sport routes as well. Nice long route. Our continued access to this crag is dependent on climbers being on The Turtle – Ontario's New Moderate Sport Crag Updated Oct 16, 2021: Turtle Crag is now officially open for climbing once again! However, there are some changes to access at this crag. Be on best behaviour. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes. The new sport routes were equipped by the local access group (Ontario Alliance of Climbers) with the approval of the provincial land manager (Conservation Halton), and will hopefully take the pressure off of the other local crags. The history of the crag may lead to a differentiation in grades, the old trad routes were graded "old school", while the newer routes seem to be being given more "modern" grades, possibly resulting in nearby routes with similar difficulty level easily varying by a couple This crag is one of the oldest sport climbing crags in southern Ontario. Early and late season, the sun doesn’t come around until 4 or 5. This crag saw development by a few devoted folks, most of it primarily through the dedicated time and effort of Gus Alexandropoulos. Many of the crags on on private land or private land needs to be crossed to access the crag. The over-2km long cliff has more than 350 routes ranging from easy 5. So on that note, I present you with How To Close A Crag (And Piss Off Other Climbers) In 12 Easy Steps. This tends to make for a lack of large cliffs and long routes, so Ontario has a reasonable amount of decent cragging, but nothing that is destination climbing. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. The sub-areas are listed climbers left to right. In 2016, the long-awaited comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment, will be released. Volume 2 picks up the narrative with the Beaver Valley crags, home to four prominent crags: Metcalfe Rock, Old Baldy, Devil’s Glen, and The Swamp (the last three being predominantly sport climbing areas). Sub-areas ordered roughly west to east. Great climbing - tough onsight - hidden holds! Good moves and varied climbing through dark streaks in the rock. May 17, 2024 · Access Status Open with Guidelines Land Manager Private landowner Type of Climbing Rules/Description Reservations to climb at Turtle Crag are MANDATORY. This makes the climbing season a little shorter than most crags in Ontario. A Note About Top-Roping Climbing on the Niagara Escarpment is great for both traditional and top-rope climbing. By completing the survey, climbers will help the OAC gain valuable information that will be used to maintain access and negotiate improved access to crags and bouldering areas across Ontario. Contains several new beginner sport routes as of 2019. Maximum Savings On Maxim Ropes Moderate Sport Routes Removed at Lion’s Head Is Ontario Open For Climbing? Ontario Climbing: Vol 0. Our agreement with the landowner allows for 12 climbers per day; consider Nemo or Rattlesnake if Northern Ontario is a region inside of OntarioIn the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. Cliffs, Crags & Carabiners Words & Photos by Will Tam You may not know it, but Southern Ontario is a world-class rock climbing destination. 13. In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. Ontario is of generally low relief -- the highest point is about 690m (2260ft) above sea level. The opening of Rattlesnake Point has been positively received by climbers struggling to find outdoor climbing opportunities closer to Ontario is a fantastic destination for outdoor rock climbing and ice climbing, offering a variety of climbing spots with diverse terrain and breathtaking scenery. Discover Climbing Areas and Crags in Oakville Welcome to Oakville, where nature's beauty meets thrilling adventures in rock climbing! The region is home to several incredible climbing areas and crags that cater to climbers of all levels. 5-hour driving radius of Thunder Bay. May 23, 2025 · Crag Status Planning to climb outdoors? Find out if your crag is open or closed! View Crag Status Discover breathtaking crags and routes suitable for climbers of all levels. Discover the thrilling world of rock climbing in Thunder Bay, Ontario. The base of The Turtle is on private property and the landowner resides approximately 100m downhill from the cliff. 0 The Social Distancing Climbing Guide LOV – Redefining Climbing Style Stocking Stuffers For Climbers At Christmas Dave Smart – 2019 Summit Of Excellence Award Winner The Swamp - Relatively one of the newer climbing areas along the Escarpment, The Swamp combines challenging climbs of all grades with a high number of routes to choose from, making it one of the best climbing areas along the Escarpment. With the increase of climbing gyms and Conservation Halton has announced that Rattlesnake Point, Bottle Glass Crag and Buffalo Crag are open for climbing. My Map Content Show images Features Maps and trails Show map All areas are on city property with the exception of Conroy pit which is NCC. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. Local rescue authorities have affixed "rescue Featuring local climbers shot by local photographers, the OAC calendar is a tribute to everything Ontario climbing has to offer. Please respect the area, it is a privilege to be allowed to climb at these crags. May 22, 2023 · Tolerated Land Manager Ministry of Natural Resources Type of Climbing Trad Sport Rules/Description MNR currently completing environmental assessment of the area. Climbs chossy-looking jugs to a V-shaped corner with a wedged-in block. It was closed to climbing for much of the '90s and was reopened to climbing with a permit system through the work of Judy Barnes and the Access Committee of Ontario (a precursor to the OAC). Discover the exciting world of rock climbing in Ottawa! From beginner-friendly crags to challenging routes for seasoned climbers, there's something for everyone. Weather-wise, Mount Nemo is shady all year round, which makes it an excellent crag to climb in the heat of summer. From beginners looking for a gentle introduction to seasoned professionals seeking a challenge, Oakville has something for everyone. Explore breathtaking rock formations and experience the thrill of outdoor adventure in this beautiful region. Buy ⓘ The Swamp, Devil's Glen, Metcalfe, Old Baldy, Mount Nemo, and Lion's Head This guidebook features: Photographs of over 95% of sport routes and 90% of trad routes Route heights and bolt counts Contributions from several of Ontario's most active climbers Several photographs of approaches with descriptions - never get lost again! GPS coordinates of all walls, crags, and important points Beautiful With the recent closure of The Turtle, one of southern Ontario’s most popular crags, I thought this would be a good time to review some behaviour that we should avoid if we hope to prevent future crag closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https The eastern part of Ontario. Steep and pumpy. The 424-page book covers 16 areas with over 650 climbs and features: Two New Crags Aerial Drone Images Detailed Route Topos Access Information Gear Recommendations Anchor Details Climbing is dangerous! To better inform climbers about the hazards associated with climbing at our Ontario crags, the Ontario Alliance of Climbers has collected beta about our crags: the approach, the character of the routes, and rescue logistics. e. Jan 13, 2016 · In All, Climbing Access, Other Crags, Toronto Climbing by Ontario Rock ClimbingJanuary 13, 2016 Crag X existed only in lore for several years in the Ontario climbing scene. There’s lots of easy top-rope setups with easy cliff access. The majority of crags are diabase with local sandstone and granite cliffs. For the first time, this book allows climbers to plan a weekend trip Jul 30, 2020 · Lion's Head is a beautiful cliff band off the shores of Georgian Bay in Southern Ontario. Williamson has climbed extensively in North America and Europe and prefers spending winters sampling the pristine Spanish limestone. Mount Kelso Mostly Trad climbing 74 routes in crag Grade context: US Photos: 3 Ascents: 174 74 YDS Access issues inherited from Ontario In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. Fees n/a Location Google Maps Last After Almost 25 Years, Southern Ontario is Getting A New Climbing Guidebook. In southern Ontario, the limestone and dolostone of the 700km long Niagara Escarpment, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, provides fifty or more crags from Niagara Falls up to Tobermory on the Bruce Pennisula. A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. A rare and unique outcrop of sandstone near the small town of Pass Lake east of Thunder Bay. The Beaver Valley is home to some of the best moderate sport climbing on the Niagara Escarpment. Apr 8, 2019 · Mount Nemo by Gus Alexandropoulos & Justin Dwyer Ontario Climbing OntarioClimbing. The Ontario Crags Calendar aims to celebrate and highlight the wide variety of climbing that Ontario has to offer. Anchor: 2 bolts and rap rings. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) has just released a document that outlines the access status of almost all the major Ontario crags. Because the cliff faces northwest it doesn’t receive any sunshine until about 2 pm. com. We outlined some of the main crags below in the map, and highlighted a few of the locations below! The Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) is requesting that all climbers fill out the current Crag Access Survey. During the summer months, hundreds of rock climbers travel to the many limestone cliffs (called “crags”) along the Niagara Escarpment to enjoy nature as well as the challenges that technical rock climbing affords. Some crags have long approaches, some require stick clips and some don’t have beginner grades. Stick clip recommended. . This is a 2km long granite cliff rising out of Mazinaw lake up to a height of 90m or so. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced pro, there's something for everyone to enjoy in this stunning natural playground. zfebvam pjucno uslivy pxed vhza bpge duty csxolgxj yqtpjx frg

26th Apr 2024